It has been quite a while since I wrote on my blog. A lot has happened since my hiatus and I promised myself that I would complete the remaining blogs to document my PDL journey last year.
I will start off with Chinatown as one of the last ethnic enclave that I have yet to delve deeper into. Chinatown is a subzone and ethnic enclave located within the Outram district in the central area of Singapore. In his 1822 master Town Plan, Sir Stamford Raffles allocated the whole area west of the Singapore River for a Chinese settlement known as the Chinese Campong (kampong in Malay means “village”), envisaging that the Chinese would form the bulk of future town dwellers.
This self-contained kampong or community settlement became the home of many Chinese immigrants, and a transit point for coolies (unskilled labourers) going to Malaya. By 1824, there were 3,317 settlers, almost one-third of the total population at that time. That kampong and Chinese centre grew, eventually becoming Chinatown.
Different trades were confined to specific areas, so each street took on its own identity. From delicacies to death-houses, there were businessmen, traders, craftsmen, hawkers and peddlers to provide all of the peoples’ needs. A familiar sight was the outdoor emporium of hawker stalls jamming the streets with every conceivable item, from cooling tea to imitation antiques
Contrary to its name, Chinatown was not exclusively Chinese. There were small communities of Indian traders around the junction of South Bridge Road and Upper Cross Street; Indian temples and Muslim mosques can be found in the area too.
Large sections of Chinatown have since been declared national heritage sites officially designated for conservation by the Urban Redevelopment Authority.
When you enter into the world of Chinatown, your senses will be awakened by the colourful sights, sounds and aromas that are central to the lives of Chinese Singaporeans. There is so much to see and experience in Chinatown as you are greeted by street vendors selling fruits and coconut drinks. The open front shops have a variety of items to offer with an array of souvenirs, lanterns and calligraphy for sale.
While in Chinatown, it is a must for everyone to make a pit stop to Chinatown Heritage Centre, a highly recommended museum of Chinese arts and culture housed in three renovated shophouses. It is the only place in Singapore that has recreated the original interiors of its shophouse tenants in the 1950s, offering visitors an honest, revealing glimpse into the lives of Chinatown's early residents.
Unlike the other heritage centres in Singapore which is free for Singaporean Citizens and residents, you need to pay for entry into the Chinatown heritage centre. Initially I was a little hesitant looking at the entry fee, however once I walked into the shop house, it was literally a step back in time.
I was drawn to the various exhibits put on display which gave its visitors a sense of what it was like to live in Chinatown back in the 1950's. Visitors to the heritage centre were provided with a multimedia guide that comes complete with commentary so that they have a better understanding of the unique story behind every nook and cranny of the shop house.
The Chinatown heritage centre comprises of three restored shop houses, with the first 1st level being a tailor’s workshop, his downstairs living quarters and the first-floor rental accommodation that have been faithfully reconstructed from the personal memories of early pioneers who made Singapore their home.
On the second level, the front cubicle of the shop house was occupied by a doctor, who had fallen on hard times. His consulting room was also the place where he, his wife and two of his children ate and slept.The cubicle is superior as compared to the rest living on the same floor as it has air and natural light coming in from a shuttered window overlooking the street. A hole in the floor, which overhung the paved area at the front of the shop house, enabled the doctor to look down to the ground to see who was visiting him.
The last level of the shop house is dedicated to the history of the Chinese population in Singapore as depicted through the photographs, video and costume. The early pioneers left their villages in China driven by famine, floods and unrest. They risked their life and limb to embark on an arduous journey from the various Chinese provinces to the promised land of Singapore.
People back then lived in sub-divided rooms called cubicles that created more living space, but were crammed, unhealthy and unsafe. Inevitably, slums developed. While walking through the various levels of the shop house, you cannot help but admire the migrants for the sacrifices that they had to make by putting up with these squalid living conditions.
As you move in even further into the shop house, you will come to appreciate how much Chinatown has evolved from the raw, seedy and underground gambling dens and secret societies it was known for to the economically and culturally vibrant self contained town it is today. Much of the town has changed, but fortunately, remnants of its colourful past are still present and old traditions have endured. Have a look at the video I created to have a feel of the various exhibits on display at Chinatown Heritage Centre.
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